Vinous released the report on Valpolicella wines by Eric Guido.
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We are happy and proud to share the great accolades deserved and what Eric Guido wrote about us:
Tommasi winery oversees 242 hectares of vineyards, of which 115 fall within Valpolicella Classica, and yet for all of its size, the level of quality remains remarkably high. What’s more, the winemaking team, led by fourth-generation Giancarlo Tommasi, places the highest level of importance upon terroir, which they do an excellent job of communicating throughout the portfolio. In my opinion, the house Amarone remains a benchmark of traditionally styled wine from the region. However, you can still look to the Ca’ Florian Riserva, which spends about a year of its refinement in barriques, if the extra hint of wood spice and tannin is your thing. Staying on the topic of Amarone, tasting the new De Buris Riserva really piqued my interest. Another attempt at a fresher style for the category, this new bottling from Tommasi comes from one of their highest-elevation parcels in the La Groletta vineyard in Sant’Ambrogio, which was planted in the 1970s and, as of 2020, has undergone full conversion to become certified organic. Another credit to the house is the importance they place on the Valpolicella Classico Superiore Rafael, produced from the first vineyard planted by Giacomo Tommasi, the winery’s founder. The Rafael vineyard remains trained with the original Pergola Veronese trellising system, which runs along its stone terraces, and while its soils of limestone and clay don’t yield especially long-lived wines, they do pack a lot of dark, savory character into the house Valpolicella.
Also of note is the brand’s continuing interest in the developing Lugana DOC and their 45 hectares there, which, according to CEO and export director Pierangelo Tommasi will soon expand beyond the regular bottling to include a Riserva and a Rosé. With all of this growth and development (let’s not forget that the family also has interests in Montalcino and the Maremma), one might worry that quality and consistency could suffer. However, from what I’ve seen, the future of Tommasi is in very capable hands.
AWARDS
93 | Tommasi Amarone della Valpolicella Classico docg 2016
The 2016 Amarone della Valpolicella Classico is quite reserved and understated, but in a way that keeps you at the edge of the glass. Roses, blackberries, savory herbs and a hint of spiced citrus make for an alluring bouquet. It’s velvety in texture, ushering in a creamy wave of ripe red and black fruits, laced with salty minerals, as dark inner florals amass toward the close. There’s a lot of power here that is currently restrained, as this finishes youthfully structured and tense, with a saturating layer of dried black cherries to tempt the imagination with what’s to come with a few years of cellaring. Also of note is the 2016’s 15% abv, making this a great option both on and away from the dinner table.
94 | Tommasi Ca’ Florian Amarone della Valpolicella Classico docg Riserva 2012
The 2012 Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Riserva Ca’ Florian holds nothing back, exploding from the glass with a massive wave of medicinal blackberries and cherries dipped in dark chocolate, complemented by autumnal and balsamic spices. It’s weighty and dense in the mouth, showing amazing concentration and persistence, as a more savory display of tart wild berries mixes with sour citrus. Throughout this heady display, a core of zesty acids maintains balance. You don’t feel it until the very end, but there’s a coating of fine wood tannin that is only revealed as the Ca’ Florian’s glycerol-textured fruits slowly fade. Open the 2012 now for all of its upfront appeal, or cellar it to explore its unseen depths – either way, it’s quite a wine.
95 | De Buris Amarone della Valpolicella Classico doc Riserva 2009
The 2009 Amarone della Valpolicella Riserva De Buris shows the best of both sides of the Amarone spectrum. Savory raspberry and plum sauce are further complemented by notes of crushed stone and dusty florals. These aromas continue to gain in volume with time in the glass, as they are joined by a seductive display of rich brown spice and mocha. This is velvety in texture yet not weighty; in fact, it’s quite lifted and spry, with a core of concentrated red and black fruits that saturate all that they touch with a mineral tinge and then withdraw to reveal a note of sour citrus. There’s a subtle tug of tannin that lingers, doing a wonderful job of framing the expression, as this tapers off to a bitter twang of tart cherry and dark chocolate. The De Buris is a new cru Riserva from the highest elevations of Tommasi’s La Groletta vineyard, which hosts 30-year-old vines overlooking Lake Garda. It spends the first year of its refinement in Slavonian oak, followed by another five years in 15- to 30-hectoliter casks. This is only the second vintage for this wine, which has been a decade in the making.
91 | Tommasi Ripasso Valpolicella Classico Superiore doc 2017
The 2017 Valpolicella Classico Superiore Ripasso is deeply alluring with dusty purple-tinged florals, sweet spices and black currants. Here I’m finding silky, cool-toned textures, further accentuated by vibrant acids, as mineral-tinged wild berries and hints of lavender soothe the senses. There’s beautiful symmetry and persistence, coming across as powerful and dense yet remaining energetic, as dark fruits linger long. This is really quite beautiful and a great value in its category.
89 | Tommasi Rafaèl Valpolicella Classico Superiore doc 2018
The 2018 Valpolicella Classico Superiore Rafael is zesty and wildly fresh, lifting up with floral-laced bright cherries contrasted by exotic brown spice. It’s soft in texture, giving way to a pure expression of violet-tinged red and blue fruits, with brisk acids and salty minerals building tension toward the close. There’s no shortage of energy here, as the 2018 Rafael tapers off to echoes of dried berries and dark inner florals.
89 | Le Fornaci Lugana doc 2019
The 2019 Lugana Le Fornaci lifts up with a honeyed richness, displaying sweet white flowers, ripe apple, lemon confit and nuances of almond paste. It boasts oily textures, ripe orchard fruits and sweet herbal tones, offset by cooling acids and minerals. The finish is long and remarkably pretty, tapering off to hazelnut and savory spice.
